January 2026 - Romania
Featuring:
La Sapata
This month's wine club writeup is guest written by Gillian Arca.
Happy New Year! To kick off 2026 we are going to be exploring the little known wines of Romania. Although Romanian wines are not widely circulated abroad, this country is still the seventh largest producer of wines in Europe. French influence is strong here due to the two languages having a shared origin of Latin, as well as many Romanian elites spending time in Paris starting in the early 18th century. Bucharest is sometimes referred to as “little Paris” due to the numerous similarities between the two cities. Romania is also home to the Transylvanian plateau where the Dracula myth is said to have originated. Most importantly Romania has an extremely long and varied history with winemaking of which we will cover loosely in the next section.
History & Varieties
Wine production in Romania is ancient, going as far back as 9,700 BCE (possibly even earlier). For many years Romanian wines were known for quality and unique indigenous varieties, even earning multiple international awards. Brands such as Rhein & Cie Azuga produced premium sparkling wines that were served on the Orient Express and at multiple royal coronations; however, beginning in 1947 the country came under Soviet rule which would drastically change the wine industry. While Romania was never officially part of the USSR, it was considered a satellite state and was under communist rule from 1948-1989. In the 1960s a massive planting program turned large chunks of land into arable vineyards; however, this program was designed to prioritize high volume wine production to serve the Soviet bloc, sacrificing quality and resulting in a poor international reputation for Romanian wines. However from the 1990s on there has been a refocusing on quality and indigenous varieties reshaping the international image of Romanian wines.
The varieties grown in Romania vary widely, with indigenous favorites being Feteasca Regala, Feteasca Alba, Tamaioasa Romaneasea (all three white grapes), Babeasea Neagra which produces a light fruity red, and lastly Feteasca Neagra, producing a deeper red. For international grapes, Welschriesling and Aligote are very common. As are Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Gris and Muscat Ottonel. Just like Tokaji in Hungary, Romania has a botrytized dessert wine. Botrytized wine is a style of wine in which a favorable mold called botrytis is allowed to develop on the outside of the grapes which causes small holes in the skin allowing water to evaporate and juice and flavors to concentrate resulting in flavors of honey, apricot and dried fruit. This wine is called Cotnari and was once famous all over Europe however in current times it is almost completely absent from conversation outside of Romania.
Geography & Climate
Romania has a continental climate, meaning that the winters are cold and the summers are hot. The Black sea to the Southeast and the Carpathian mountains (which curve like a backwards “c” in the center of the country) moderate this harsh climate. The mountains rise to a height of 8,000 feet enclosing the Transylvanian Plateau. Most of the wine production happens either South or East of the mountains. The Danube river flows in the south acting as a border between Romania and Bulgaria. The country is divided into several wine regions, with Moldavia being the largest to the east of the mountains. White wine production dominates here. Muntenia and Oltenia are hilly, Southern regions with south facing slopes and have the highest temperatures in Romania. Cabernet, Merlot, Pinot Noir and Feteasca Neagra dominate here. One the short Black Sea coast sits the region of Dobrogea which has the lowest rainfall and sunniest climate. This region is known for producing luscious red wines as well as sweet Chardonnay from very ripe grapes. Banat and Transylvania are in the middle of the country on a plateau about 1,500 ft above sea level. Crisp whites and international red varieties dominate here - Pinot Noir, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. Overall, Romania has a hugely varied climate and geography, allowing a staggering variety of wines to be produced by this lesser-discussed country.
La Sapata
Our wines this month come from La Sapata in the subregion Sarica Niculitel in the larger Dobrogea region that runs along the Black Sea. Owners Roberto Di Filippo and Roberto Pieroni practice organic farming and work their land via horse. While being committed to practicing organic farming they are also committed to the creation of jobs that encourage residents to stay in the area (as opposed to moving to the bigger cities - a modern problem across rural Europe). Di Filippo also owns and operates Cantina Plani Arche in Umbria, Italy which is a small organic operation specifically focused on Umbria varieties such as Grechetto, Trebbiano, Sangiovese, Barbera and Sagrantino. These two Italians in Romania bring years of expertise and experience to growing high quality sustainable grapes and producing complex yet bold wines. The grape varieties they grow at La Sapata are Feteasca, Rkatitel, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Moscato Ottonel, Merlot, Babesca, Blauer and Sangiovese. They vinify their wine in a new, modernized winery. The soils in their vineyards are poor in nutrients and sandy, which results in low yields of high quality fruit. Native plants have been allowed to grow revitalizing the soil.
La Sapata, Fetească regală, Sarica Niculitel 2024
The white wine in this month's wine club selection is made from the indigenous grape Feteasca regala. The grapes are destemmed and pressed, then fermentation happens at around 64 degrees Fahrenheit. Maturation of the wine is in stainless steel in order to preserve freshness and acidity. On the nose this wine is floral with notes of elderflower as well as citrus such as grapefruit and lime. On the palate this wine has citrus, stone fruit, tropical fruit and a fresh creaminess that is paired nicely with a lively acidity. There is salty tang with a lengthy finish. This wine would pair well with salads, shellfish or any grilled fish.
La Sapata, Băbească neagră, Sarica Niculitel 2023
The red wine in this month's club selection is made from the grape Babeasca neagra which translates to “Grandmothers black grape”. The grapes are fermented in the standard red wine style with fermentation happening at slightly warmer temperatures than for white wines and maceration on the skins for 10 days. Maturation happens in stainless steel for these wines to produce an easy drinking red. On the nose this wine is fruity with notes of morello cherry, prune and coffee. On the palate there are notes of plum, red currant, tomato leaf and leather. This wine is best paired with grilled meats, sausages and rich pastas. It would also go well with charcuterie or meatier fish such as salmon or tuna.